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Die nach vulkanischen Wasserdampf-Explosionen entstandenen Seen in der Eifel heißen „Maare“ – und sind heute die reinsten Kraftorte. Ein Spaziergang um das Pulvermaar in Rhineland-Palatinate mit der Kulturlandschaftsführerin Irene Sartoris.

Es ist noch früh am Morgen, als Irene Sartoris, ausgestattet mit Wanderschuhen und Rucksack, losmarschiert. Ziel: eine Runde um das Pulvermaar; es liegt auf halber Strecke zwischen Koblenz und Trier im Südteil des Westeifeler Vulkanfeldes und zählt mit 74 Metern zu Deutschlands tiefsten Seen. Das kristallklare Gewässer hat eine fast kreisrunden Fläche und einen bewaldeten Ring rundherum – das sieht wunderschön aus. Saftige Wiesen wechseln sich ab mit dichtem Gehölz und stillen Bachtälern. An einer Bank am Ufer bleibt die Frau mit dem sportlichen Kurzhaarschnitt stehen und lässt ihren Blick über den See schweifen, in dem sich jetzt die ersten Sonnenstrahlen spiegeln. 

In the calm lies the power

Beim Schalkenmehrener Maar handelt es sich um ein Doppelmaar bestehend aus dem westlichen Maarsee und dem östlichen Trockenmaar
Beim Schalkenmehrener Maar handelt es sich um ein Doppelmaar bestehend aus dem westlichen Maarsee und dem östlichen Trockenmaar © Rheinland-Pfalz Tourismus GmbH - Dominik Ketz

"This peace and quiet here, with the birds chirping and the leaves rustling in the trees, is simply dreamlike," enthuses Irene Sartoris, who often visits her "soul spots," as she calls the places in lush nature, before work to recharge her batteries for the day. However, the Eifel native prefers to set out with others. She is part of the team of certified nature and geopark guides who regularly take guests on short excursions through the unique landscape of volcanic cones and circular crater lakes and answer questions about the special features of the region. And these are first and foremost the maars. That's right, the word comes from the Latin "mare," meaning sea, and it feels a bit like that - at least in summer, when excursionists hop into the refreshingly cool water and rowboats and pedal boats can be seen everywhere. 

Where all hell broke loose

What looks picturesque today is the result of violent eruptions more than 20,000 years ago. In that fiery time, when in the Eifel, especially in the district of Daun including Ulmen and Manderscheid, the battle of the elements raged and the youngest volcanic area in Germany got its face. 

But what exactly are maars, Ms. Sartoris? "The bowl- or funnel-shaped depressions are formed when magma rises and hits a water-bearing layer of earth. As a result, the water evaporates abruptly, enormous explosions occur, and a funnel is formed that is injected into the earth. If the ground is sealed in such a way that groundwater and rainwater can collect there, a water-filled "maar" is formed. The tour guide explains this process vividly on her regular discovery tours, which are attended by school classes as well as amateur geologists and outdoor enthusiasts. And who knows, maybe you'll even make an exciting find along the way! Like Irene Sartoris, who in 2007, on a foray through the Wartgesberg volcano, came across the largest lava flying bomb to date. It's a stately specimen that actually shot through the air as a hot fireball after a volcanic eruption and is now part of the Volcano Experience Trail that begins at the Volcano House in Strohn. "The erratic block was covered by rubble," recalls the passionate local historian, "so I'm already proud not to have overlooked it." You can get a small impression of her work in the video about the "Secrets of the Maars":

Vacation on the volcano

By the way, of the approximately 80 Maar volcanoes, only twelve are still filled with water. And the Pulvermaar is one of the few where bathing is allowed. There is even a natural outdoor pool there with a slide, diving tower and children's pool. Tip for those who want to spend longer than just a day trip at this special spot of nature: Near the village of Gillenfeld, charmingly situated on the crater rim of the Pulvermaar and protected by high beech forest, there's a vacation village with a campsite and bungalows. From here you have a magnificent view of the "bluest eye" of the Eifel. 

Viele Wanderwege durchziehen die Landschaft, die zum UNESCO-Geopark Vulkaneifel gehört. Auf ihren geführten Touren erzählt Irene Sartoris, seit Kindheitstagen mit der Region verbunden, auch von den Sagen und Geschichten, die sich um die geheimnisvoll wirkenden Maare ranken. Und von der märchenhaften Flora und Fauna im Hochmoor. Ihr Motto: „Sehen, riechen, fühlen, staunen – mit allen Sinnen erleben.“ 

Titelbild: Ein Wanderweg führt durch die Buchenhochwälder rund um das Pulvermaar © RalfenByte

Der Text "Rheindland-Gold" in großen Buchstaben mit Farbverlauf in Braun- und Beigetönen.
In collaboration with Rhineland-Palatinate Tourism GmbH

For a Vacation in Rhineland-Palatinate there are many good reasons. Some of them are the several castles and chateaus, great Vineyards on the Moselle and Rhine and historic cities like Trier and Mainz.

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