Romanticism on the Rhine

Already in the 19th century, the Rhine had cult character: Especially the Middle Rhine inspired many artists. Even today, the river with its almost poetic landscape of deep valleys, mountains and castles is a place of longing for people from all over the world. Not least because of the beautiful Loreley, which has turned the heads of many a ...

An einem warmen, sonnigen Tag erreichte William Turner die Stadt Koblenz. Damals, im August 1817,  war er bereits 42 Jahre alt und einer der führenden englischen Landschaftsmaler. Und obwohl er oft reiste und schon viel gesehen hatte, war der Künstler sofort fasziniert von „father rhine“. Er erkundete größtenteils zu Fuß das Flussufer und hielt seine Eindrücke in zahlreichen Skizzen fest. Heute markieren 26 Standorte die wichtigen Stationen entlang der „William Turner Route“ durch das Obere Mittelrheintal, welches seit 2002 zum UNESCO Welterbe zählt. Zurück in London verarbeitete der Maler seine am Rhein entstandenen Momentaufnahmen zu meisterhaften Aquarellen, die heute in Museen und Privatsammlungen auf der ganzen Welt ausgestellt sind. 

William Turner is not the only one whom the wildly romantic Rhine Valley inspires to groundbreaking works: At the beginning of the 19th century, numerous artists, poets and musicians from Germany and abroad, including Richard Wagner and the French writer Victor Hugo, discovered the region whose unspoiled nature perfectly suited the Romantic era. At that time, people turned more to nature, retreated into dream worlds, were fascinated by the uncanny.

The birth of Rhine Romanticism is considered to be 1802, the year in which the German writers Clemens Brentano and Achim von Arnim explored the then still unruly river. The spectacular natural scenery, plus the many castles with towers and battlements, some dilapidated and all the more dramatic - all this fired their imaginations. They immersed themselves in the legends and fairy tales of the Middle Ages and created their own stories. 

Thus begins Clemens Brentano's ballad, in which the Loreley rock was associated with a female figure for the first time. Later, many other writers took up this motif, with Heinrich Heine's poem "Die Lore-Ley" from 1824 (set to music by Friedrich Silcher) probably being the most famous work on the subject. In it, he describes a mermaid-like figure who distracts passing shipmen with her song and beauty, and thus plunges them to their doom. Legendary are the first lines: "I don't know, what should it mean that I am so sad ...". But those who trace the myth today in the new Loreley Culture and Landscape Park feel above all feelings of happiness - the panorama is too unique: with the canyon-like breakthrough valley of the Rhenish slate mountains full of vine-covered slopes, with the towns of St. Goarshausen and St. Goar lying on narrow banks, and with the castles of Katz and Rheinfels lined up on rocky outcrops - all of exhilarating beauty! Another equally spectacular viewpoint is Maria Ruh, located directly opposite the Loreley Rock.

By the way, Bacharach from Brentano's ballad, located about twelve kilometers to the south, is considered the "secret capital of Rhine Romanticism" because of its many secluded corners, half-timbered beauties, church buildings and first-class wineries.  

By train comfortably and without traffic jams to Bacharach: Plan arrival.

Admiring the beauties on the banks of the Rhine is particularly well done by water. You can travel leisurely downstream or upstream through the unique cultural landscape. How about enjoying the passing scenery from a nostalgic paddle steamer like in the old days? There are castle and Bacchus tours, and of course a Loreley tour. In addition to such themed tours, you can also be chauffeured from Rüdesheim to St. Goar, for example, and take shore excursions in between; the area is teeming with picturesque towns, historic alleys, castles and beer gardens.

Doch zurück nach Koblenz, wo William Turners erste Rheinreise begann. Und wo ihn besonders die Festung Ehrenbreitstein faszinierte, die er wegen ihrer idyllischen Lage zwischen Rhein und Moselle aus unterschiedlichen Perspektiven festhielt. Auch über 200 Jahre später weckt die alte Stadt am Deutschen Eck das kreative Potenzial von Künstlerinnen und Künstlern. „Ständig streife ich hier mit meiner Kamera durch die Straßen und die Umgebung“, sagt der junge Fotograf Henry Tornow, der immer auf der Suche nach besonderen und außergewöhnlichen Motiven ist.

By train comfortably and without traffic jams to Koblenz: Plan arrival.