Boat trip to pilot island - All the way back where the lighthouse stands

Wind and waves created a beach whale landscape in the estuary of the Schlei that at best Astrid Lindgren could have imagined. When the state wanted to sell it off, a foundation stepped in to protect nature and keep the pilot islands accessible to the general public.

Kurz vor elf Uhr in Kappeln an der Schlei. Die Sonne lacht, der Dampfer tutet. An Deck der MS Stadt Kappeln mischen sich dänische und deutsche Vokabeln mit Möwengeschrei. Bedächtig gleitet das ehemalig russische Motorschiff aus dem Hafen. Und wenn es Ausflugsdampfer noch nicht gäbe, man müsste sie erfinden. Denn welches Verkehrsmittel bietet schon frische Luft und frische Waffeln zugleich? Die Schlei windet sich durch eine idyllische Landschaft, vorbei an sanft geschwungene Feldern und satten, grünen Wiesen. Bei den blitzweißen Reetdachkaten von Rabelsund wird der Duft nach Meer intensiver, der Wind frischer. Nach einem kurzen Zwischenstopp im Fischerdorf Maasholm hält das Schiff auf Schleimünde zu, dem Punkt, wo Schlei und Baltic Sea sich treffen. Es ist schon erstaunlich, wie verlässlich Inseln das Gefühl von Abenteuer und ganz großer Freiheit auslösen. Ausgerechnet Inseln, die doch im Grunde der Inbegriff von Begrenzung sind. Doch es funktioniert selbst auf den allerkleinsten, wie der Lotseninsel, bei der es sich nicht wirklich um eine Insel handelt, sondern um das Ende einer Landzunge.

The 112-hectare peninsula is largely protected and may not be entered over a wide area. Thus, the outermost tip can actually only be reached by boat. A tiny piece of land in the sea, big enough for everything that makes an island: a harbor of refuge that is immensely popular with sailors, a green-and-white-striped lighthouse, a conference center where private individuals are also allowed to spend the night when gaps in bookings open up, and the Giftbude (www.facebook.com/lotseninsel). The former harbor pub now serves the best regional cuisine. The MS Stadt Kappeln gives its passengers 30 minutes to explore the little wonderland. That's enough to circle the island about ten times and take part in a free guided bird tour. Schleimünde is smaller than Lummerland. But it is definitely a good idea to return only with the second ship three and a half hours later. Leaning against the flood protection wall on the boardwalk is a great way to squint in the sun. And the Baltic Sea is as blue as it was before Saltkråkan.

By train and bus comfortably to Kappeln on the Schlei: Plan arrival.

Great freedom in the smallest space. Check the schedules of the excursion boat beforehand; Not on all days is the extension of the stay possible - and that would be too bad.
There & away
Visitors can park free of charge and close to the harbor, e.g. in Feldstraße (third right after the bridge).
Best time
Summer. Timetables e.g. under www.schlei-ausflugsfahrten.de
Duration & Route
5 hrs and some steps for the island circumnavigation.
Equipment
Picnic is good (poison booth though).

For all those who want to get out of the daily grind quickly without having to travel far! Eskapaden are the new active guides from DuMont: Whether hiking, biking, paddling or simply quietly enjoying nature. The Eskapaden offer 52 small and large excursions and mini-vacations in Germany's most popular regions and cities. Whether for a few hours, a day or a wonderfully long weekend, whether alone, with friends or family - irresistible excursions into the countryside await. So off you go outside!

Cover © Volko Lienhardt